I got a private message on a photography forum from someone who said that her new Canon SX230 HS compact camera, the same one that I have, was giving her photos that were a lot less sharp than her Olympus C-740 compact. At first I thought it might be the usual subjects: handheld shots in low light, zooming without image stabilisation, even shaky hands. But she sent me some example pictures from the Canon, and a comparison shot from the Olympus, and it was soon clear what the real problem was. It wasn't "blurriness", it was "fuzziness". And there are at least three reasons why one camera can produce fuzzier shots than another.
Firstly, different cameras can choose different settings under the same circumstances. For a given amount of light in a scene, one camera might choose an aperture of f/4 while another chooses f/5.6. Compact cameras in full Auto (or 'green box') mode usually compare the scene with hundreds of stored scenes to choose the appropriate settings. Now a camera will produce a less sharp picture with a wider aperture. An aperture of f/4 is wider than an aperture of f/5.6, so the pictures will be a little fuzzier. This wasn't the case with my contact's photos: they were all shot at f/4, even the sample shot from the Olympus. Of course, build quality also comes into the picture. The lens in one camera might just not be as sharp as the lens in another at the same aperture.
Secondly, cameras with higher zoom values often won't be so sharp when zoomed right in or right out, especially around the edges of the picture. Her Olympus has a 10x zoom (35mm equivalent of 38-380mm), while the SX230's zoom is 14x (35mm equivalent of 28-392mm). If she is shooting fully zoomed-out with the Canon, she's shooting at 28mm, whereas the Olympus would be at 38mm. Now, the difference of 10mm isn't so much when looked at on a ruler, but in lens terms it's a lot. Cameras with long zooms tend to suffer from lack of sharpness when fully zoomed out or fully zoomed in, especially around the eges. The situation isn't made any better by the presence of chromatic aberration at the edges of the picture (coloured fringing where there is high contrast, such as branches against the sky), which can make the picture look even softer. I looked at my contact's pictures fully zoomed in and saw that this was indeed the case. Not only was there less detail at the edges of the shots from the Canon, there was more chromatic aberration.
There are (at least) three ways to deal with this situation. 1) Instead of zooming right out to get as much into the picture as possible, move back a little and zoom in a little. A longer focal length will go some way to avoiding softness and chromatic aberration. 2) Rather than taking a photo fully zoomed in, move forward if you can and zoom out a little and, if ncessary, crop the edges of the photo off using editing software. 3) Zoom however you like and use post-processing software such as Photoshop Elements, PaintShop Pro, or Lightroom to remove the chromatic aberration; this can be an expensive solution, though.
Lastly, when a camera takes a photo it does some post-processing which usually includes a certain amount of sharpening. Different cameras apply a different amount of sharpening. Some, such as DSLRs, assume that the photographer will apply sharpening using post-processing software, while others, such as compact cameras, assume that the photographer wants the camera to do the sharpening. I certainly apply my own sharpening to my photos rather than rely on the camera, whether it's a DSLR or a compact. One very inexpensive solution would be for her to use Picasa photo manager to sharpen her photos. It's free, it's a great way to manage photos, especially if you're not a professional, and it does a sufficiently good job of sharpening.
Now, having gone through all of the theory, there is one more way to get sharper photos from the SX230 HS and other Canon cameras. It's buried in the My Colors menu. Unfortunately, the My Colors menu isn't available in Auto mode. However, Program mode (P) is the same as Auto mode except that it allows you to change more settings, including My Colors. And if you don't change any other settings, it shouldn't be any different from using Auto mode. For some people, it's also a first step-up towards using the so-called 'creative' modes.
I'll explain the steps for anyone who has a Canon compact as it will be similar to the SX230 HS. If you have soft photos and you don't have a Canon, your manual should tell you if and how you can change the settings for more sharpness. With the SX230 in Program mode and ready to take a picture, press the Func Set button, press the top or bottom of the dial to move to My Colors (2nd from the top of the list), press the right side of the dial to highlight it, then press the Disp button. You can now change the Contrast, Sharpness, overall colour Saturation, amount of saturation of Red, Green, and Blue in the picture, and Skin Tone colour in the picture. Press the top or bottom of the dial to access each of these settings and press the left or right side of the dial to decrease or increase each value. Press Func Set again when you're done. It's a lot simpler to do than to explain.
This should give my contact sharper pictures. Whether they'll be sharper than the pictures she gets with her Olympus remains to be seen, and depends to some extent on the other problems I've mentioned in this article. I just hope that they're satisfactory.